MFW SPRING/SUMMER 2016: Best Of The Runway

Elegant, refined and unique: Massimiliano Giornetti definitely nailed the three adjectives. 

For next spring the historical Italian house showcases a luxurious collection, where leather garments look as enticing as the floating midi-length sundresses in lofty cotton or chiffon. The color palette goes from severe black and white numbers, to romantic sky blue or coral pieces.

I’ve grew a particular attraction for Fendi in the last couple of years: the youthful energy of the collections might be one of the key-factors, but I guess that the main reason is the exquisite attetion for the details. It looks so well done that you can’t take your eyes off the runway.

It is common to associate the warmest seasons with light fabrics in bright colors, but not according to Mr Lagerfeld & Silvia Venturini Fendi: strict geometric silhouettes, leather, puff-shoulder sleeves and Victorian collars.
Oh and prepare to add Fendi‘s new bags to your personal wishlist!

Can we stand up an clap like we mean it for Donatella Versace’s latest collection?
No, I am not over-reacting, this is the Versace collection as was wating for: fierce, alluring & wearable.
This spring the Versace woman turns into an urban warrior: top models marched on the runway wearing a selection of strong daywear looks as the khaki tailored jackets paired with webbing belts and shorts, the printed sweatshirts or the camouflage tailored suits.
While the vertiginous platforms preserved the brand’s typical seductive factor, the introduction of colorful backpacks marks the intention to evolve the Versace’s identity.
Brava Donatella!

A breath of fresh air also at Fausto Puglisi’s runway-show: the Italian designer made a case for his love for bold and loud embroideries, but for next spring he decided to try something new, something soft, elegant and breath-taking. 

Inspired by the work of iconic designers as Madame Grès and Halston, Puglisi introduces his first silk jersey draped looks: I have to say that my heart stopped as I saw the closing outfit, an ivory gown worth of a Greek goddess.

The rest of the collection is a continuous contrast between “hard” and “soft”: indeed aside the injection of poetry, Puglisi does not gave up to his edgy aesthetics as proved by the bold sweatshirts and minidresses with cheecky cut-outs.

What I love about Philip Plein is how he manages to compose music with his own designs: it’s fashion but it stucks in your head as a hit song.
The musical theme was obvious, as the designer himself describes the collection as “a modern day fusion of hip hop, heavy-metal, rock and rap.”: busy theme yes, but also the garments looked busy too, as metal knit, studs and leather made their appereance on the runway.
An edgy collection that required an equally edgy show: by questioning our daily relationship with technology, the designer conceived a runway-set able to miminc that connection.
Indeed the models looked as products on an assembly line, where robotic arms handled them accessories (like Plein’s first sunglasses) as they walked on the runway.
Here is what the designer said about the setting: “Our life today is dominated by machines and electronic gadgets. Like your phone is dominating your life and your navigation system is helping you to go from A to B. Without our gadgets it is really hard these days for us to survive.”
Amen.

Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce have just taken their Italian pride to the next level, by widening their designing horizons from the pure celebration of Sicilian history, to the glorification of Italian beauties as seen through the eyes of the foreign tourists who began to visit the country after World War II.
Inspired by vintage post-cards and advertising posters, the new collection is all about joy, color and yes Italian clichè: indeed models walk the catwalk wearing stiped tops, silk turbans, skirts, sleek tailored suits and dresses embellished by tourist slogans, flowers, fruits or even tourist attraction made of sequins. The atmosphere was so light that they even stop on the runway to pose for selfies (that the adusinece was able to watch on overhead screens).
The designing duo manages also to showcase unique and alluring summery accessories, like the earrings in the shape of lemons and oranges, the crocheted raffia bags or the big sunglasses, decorated with flowers and crystals.

I would love to spend a few words also for two designers, better two brands, whose new designing directions are leaving me puzzled: yes I am reffering to Gucci & Moschino.
As much as I appreciate and admire the flamboyant nature of Italian fashion, the effort, the talent and the passion that Alessando Michele and Jeremy Scott are putting in their designs at Gucci & Moschino respectively, there are two things that I really don’t get:

1) ALESSANDRO MICHELE for GUCCI: Does your aesthetic really represents the company you are working for? 
This is the only thing I could think when I saw Michele’s second take on Gucci: as much as I have hated the first experiment, I did have appreciated this spring/summer collection, but let’s be honest, this has nothing to do with Gucci IMO.
This girly, geeky, vintage-like aesthetics is new, somehow alluring, but please do not call it Gucci: it’s like giving Chanel to Jeremy Scott.
Alessandro Michele loves fashion and he is a talented, educated designer, specialized media see that and recognize him as a true revolutionary, but to me he is not dressing the typical Gucci’s lovers, he is dressing his own clientele, but has the privilege to use the Gucci name to do so.

2) JEREMY SCOTT for MOSCHINO: Are you kidding me? 
I will be quick: this is Jeremy Scott idea of ready-to-wear fashion.